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MY ADMIRATION encompassed the nearby Royal Valley Golf Club course, another jewel and the focal point of a US-style country club where elegance and style are as all-important as the service.
The latter was impeccable: the on-course beverage cart found us every 15 minutes or so (it was March but unseasonably hot because of desert winds) and a second cart dispensed ice cold towels with similar frequency! And this was not because we were VIP's: it's part of the daily service.
Lunch in the Nubian-style clubhouse was a bonus. These people know how to look after a fellow. One could become quite spoiled.
The course is by Arthur Davis and in keeping with the philosophy of most American architects it was designed to be played on wheels. Don't even think about walking. This is white knuckle country with lots of muscular holes, although we were unfortunate to have played it in a four club desert wind in reverse of prevailing. Doubtless it would be somewhat less physically demanding under normal conditions.
Even so, your knowledge of course management will be tested to the full: you'll be laying up more than once, particularly on the outward loop where water awaits.
Take a tip: don't be bashful about using the forward tees. There are four sets: one named Nerfertity, for your harem, comes in at 5,215 yards, and the high priests use those named after King Tut, which stretch the card to 6,735 yards. This is not over-long for a par-72 but the fairways are of Bermuda grass, so there's no run or bounce. It plays to every inch.
The outward loop is more open, with wide fairway targets and large, tightly defended greens of Bermuda 419. The homeward half is tighter, with lots of sandy waste areas. Both loops have cloying Bermuda rough, often in collars in the green approaches: hence my tip about laying up, particularly with the approach shot, and taking enough club for the one to the green.
It's all part of the rich tapestry of golfing life and great fun in a fascinating country. End the day, as we did, with a cocktail cruise on the Nile, and your cup will runneth over…
LUXOR, just to the north of the great Aswan dam, was as far south as our journey took us. From here we turned north again and east, to the shores of the Red Sea. It was a short drive to our next stop, only 40 miles or so, but it was a world away from what had gone before.
This is the modern face of Egypt, created for the tourist industry, a place of plush resorts, grand hotels and wall-to-wall luxury. The Pharaohs would have loved it.
We were at the El Gouna resort, near Hurghada, the capital city of the Red Sea region that is an hour by air from Cairo. The city is ancient, the resort as modern as can be, only five years old and still growing apace.
It is the last word in beach side resorts, in a lavish setting with every pleasure on tap. There's a collection of four and five star hotels, villas and apartments for sale and rental; there's tennis, squash, horse and camel riding, in fact every sport you can imagine from hang gliding to scuba diving.
And the night life is guaranteed to stop a devout hedonist in his tracks. Gourmets, too, should take up the challenge. The choice of restaurants is bewildering and there's a "Dine Around" programme that allows hotel guests their choice of places to eat.
Almost forgot the golf! Not really. Just saving the best bit until last.
There's currently only one course at El Gouna, but it's of some pedigree and others are in the pipeline. A bonus: the aforementioned Gary Player course is not far away.
The El Gouna course winds around a series of lagoons (one of which is the driving range) that double as nature reserves. So there are lots of water carries and a high water table brings lush growth and tip top presentation. It looks a treat.
It was designed by Gene Bates and Fred Couples, a partnership I have long admired. This one doesn't disappoint, either, and as you might expect from its provenance it's a big driving course with greens of comparable size and configuration.
A chap could open his shoulders here, and if he were using the back tees he'd need to! There are five decks of them and they stretch from 4,600 yards for the hand maidens to 6,800 for the hot shots who breakfast on red meat. Take your pick but be warned: virtually every hole has water lurking so don't be too ambitious.
I gather that it's possible to play year-round here, even though the temperature reaches 40C in summer time: it’s a dry heat and there’s always a sea breeze. Sounds good to me, but then I’m always seeking new ways to work up a thirst! I gather, though, that it’s idyllic in the winter.
The major attraction, the Gary Player course, is about 40 minutes away: be assured it will be worth the trip. It may be one of Gary’s finest, which is saying something.
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