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Too soon I was heading west again, to Cape Town. First, though, a call at Steenberg, the hotel with a golf course in a vineyard.
It lies in the tranquil Constantia Valley, hard against the lower slopes of Steenberg Mountain with False Bay on the other flank.
Originally a farm dating to 1682, Steenberg is the oldest vineyard in the Western Cape. It's still going strong, in fact it's been modernised, as have the manor house and out-buildings which form the delightful hotel around a courtyard green. Another national monument, it is five star de luxe and has 19 rooms, each of individual style and furnished with antiques.
Sublime cuisine and welcome aside, it's an uncommonly rewarding hotel, not least because guests have access to the ultra-private members' course designed by Peter Matkovich, architect of the fabled Leopard Rock.
It's an agreeable course that requires a modicum of precision and though the greens are large they don't appear so because, in most cases, they're level with the fairway. There's water here and there and some large bunkers -- one par-3 is virtually all bunker -- and it's one to reward players of all abilities.
For those tempted to linger, there's another course nearby, to add variety. It's called West Lake and it's an English-style parkland. In fact if it were not for the mountain backdrop it might be in Surrey, perhaps, or Bucks. It's a joy to see and to play, with several outstanding holes and, like Steenberg, offers easy walking and a welcoming clubhouse.
TO Cape Town, finally, and the realisation of a life-long dream. I'd heard that it is arguably the loveliest city on earth and having now seen it I concur. It is visually exquisite, elegant and hospitable, well-endowed gastronomically and culturally, and with an ambience to soothe the spirit.
Its golf is a bit special, too. The Royal Cape club is an imperative. Venerable, traditional, picturesque, challenging; it's all you'd expect of a Royal club. It has impeccable greens and its kikuyu fairways give crisp lies that invite the fairway woods you'll be using frequently when the sea breeze is whipping in from South America!
The South African Open has been played here, so it's a course requiring contemplation, but it's not a monster. Any competent golfer will have a ball, although he'll probably lose one or two in the ponds that await the cut tee shot.
The clubhouse ambience is a bonus and Craig Ross, the pro, will give a warm, Scottish-style welcome.
WHICH brings us full circle, back to Erinvale and a fitting finale to an unforgettable tour.
This is the wine region of the Cape and the most popular golfing area for visitors. It is scenic, safe, convenient for Cape Town and close to the beaches. It's known as the Monaco of South Africa, a privileged residential area. Erinvale sits comfortably in the centre.
The course is ranked 11th in South Africa and all I can presume that someone miscounted because this is the jewel in the crown of Cape golf and was the venue for the 1996 World Cup.
It's an awesome challenge from the back tees (heck, even from the members' tees!), a major driving course whose principal hazard is vast greens, the product of immense cunning, all zealously defended.
From knowledge of his other courses Gary Player usually favours greens flat to the fairway, presenting small, stoutly guarded targets.
At Erinvale he has used the natural movement of the land to create elevated greens, some long and narrow, some side-on, most scalloped by mounded, gathering bunkers.
Others are huge, perhaps angled to the line of shot, sharply sloping and defended by deep pits of sand, some with sleepers and steps. You'll get the picture.
Of the larger greens, some have concave sections, some convex. So from a distance a ridge or swale will hide part of it, and often the base of the flagstick.
The consequence is indecision and, like as not, a 40 foot putt across a slope, or worse, down it. So even on the short par-4s -- and there are a couple of beauties -- you'll need to have your thinking cap on. On the longer holes it frequently pays to lay up. Pin position is critical. Plus precision on your part, naturally.
It's a course you'll want to play frequently, one of the most enjoyable I know.
Thinks: must ask Larry to check his diary...
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