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On the subject of romance, there are eight guest rooms in the gothic-style, stone-built main house and each is unique in style and décor. All have four poster beds and views of the gardens, the bay and the golf course. It would be a perfect spot for a honeymoon and Christmas here would be a memorable experience.
But small golfing groups, too, are regular welcome visitors and for them the newly renovated St Deiniols Lodge has five twin/double rooms furnished in a modern style with oodles of space in first class comfort. Our visit coincided with that of a group of ten male golfing doctors happily ensconced in the lodge. They were having a ball.
Another fellow guest was Peter O’Toole, the actor. He’s one of several celebrities who are regulars at this charming country house. They enjoy the walks, the cuisine and the conviviality of the bar. They mix easily, without fuss.
Some of them are golfers and that’s a major attraction too because the Tenby links, the oldest in Wales, is a rip snorter, a classic founded in 1888 and re-designed in 1923 by James Braid, of which more anon.
THE town of Tenby is on the western side of Camarthen Bay in Pembrokeshire National Park and is the epitome of all that's appealing about the region's coastline.
Encircled by medieval walls and criss-crossed by cobble-stoned streets, much of it dates to the 13th century. Its ruined castle bears testimony to centuries as a fortress town: there's a Norman church, said to be the oldest in Wales, and a boat-bobbing, picture book harbour overlooked by a crescent of pastel coloured Georgian homes that snuggle into the hillside.
Broad beaches virtually ring the town and behind the dunes of South Beach lies the venerable Tenby Golf Club, the first in Wales and one of its national treasures. Here’s a course to make the heart sing, a true links in the classical style with undulating fairways of sea-washed turf, all wriggling in different directions, snaking their way between the dunes.
It's a links of rare variety and rhythm, one to examine every shot in your armoury and test your short game technique to the limit. A cluster of superb par threes counterpoint some great driving holes played to crumpled fairways strewn with hidden bunkers and edged by fearsome rough. From the medal tees the card reads 6,026 yards, par 68, but when you learn there’s only one par five you’ll get some idea of the challenge that awaits and why the course is a regular venue for major amateur events and, this year, the Welsh PGA Championship.
Long and narrow in the main, often elevated and frequently angled, the Tenby greens offer a rare challenge to all aspects of the short game. Each is different from its neighbour in all but one respect: with only a couple of exceptions each is an expanse of slopes and borrows. With very little nap and hard as links greens should be, they pose ticklish problems in the ever-present breeze. Chris Jenkins, the green keeper, has been there for 37 years, man and boy. If there were an Oscar in his business he’d been a nominee most years.
It may be a venerable club but it’s a forward-looking one. Any century-old links requires a modicum of up-dating and a long term project in this regard is now nearing completion, thanks to Chris and his team. Several holes have been up-graded, there are some new tees and a number of bunkers have been moved in response to increased length of shot brought about by innovation in equipment.
Most dramatically, two new holes will be opened early next year, replacing the old 8th and 9th, both par three, which were affected by a public footway. The new 8th will be about 430 yards, the new 9th about 380 yards, increasing par overall from 68 to 70. Both are visual delights and certain to enhance the exhilarating experience that awaits the visitor to this grand old links. Like the Penally Abbey Hotel, it merits any detour. If one is required there’s a bonus, a nearby parkland course that offers great fun and an equally warm welcome. It completes an appealing combination for a golfing holiday.
Trefloyne Golf Club, in Penally and close to the hotel, is a new course that’s earning a sound reputation, both for its presentation and degree of challenge.
It was opened in 1996 and languished somewhat until the present owners acquired it in 2004. With a considerable investment they set about up-grading the infrastructure, particularly the drainage, often a problem with new parkland courses. Now it is impeccable and looks a picture.
It is set largely on the floor of a valley, hence the initial drainage problem, and play is on two levels with views of Tenby from the high ground. Because it is so lush it plays long and the large greens are best described as tricky: they look flat but subtle movement demands your best attention. Most are flat to the fairway, old-style, but four are elevated. It’s an uncomplicated design but no small challenge and great value.
There’s a sign near the terrace bar at the new clubhouse that carries a simple command: “Enjoy!” That’s easy peasy. If you can’t enjoy Tenby and all it has to offer there’s simply no hope for you. Better take up tennis…
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