Europe - Cyprus (contd.)


The project is of particular significance for Paphos, an ancient harbour town of countless attractions.

The two existing courses, Secret Valley and Tsada, are more easily accessible from here, as many British golfers have discovered.

The opening of the Aphrodite Hills club will make the town the hub of golf in Cyprus, although the new highway puts bustling Limasol only 45 minutes from Aphrodite Hills and neighbouring Secret Valley (pictured).

Of the two existing courses Tsada is the senior. It was designed by Donald Steel and opened in 1994. Not one of Donald's simpler projects, it was a difficult site, elevated and heavily undulating with clay based sub-soil. The end result is a minor miracle of inventive design and routing.

It's a scenic course in a spectacular setting, on a plateau at an altitude of 1,500 feet with substantial changes in elevation.

The site, once the estate of a 12th century monastery, has a moorland look about it in parts with shots up-hill and down dale. So it's one of some challenge, a muscular test from the back tees. But the fairways are wide, the bunkering sparse and never penal, the greens generous, subtle in break and roll.

The English greenkeeper does a splendid job. The greens were superb in July and although the course has irrigation I'm told it is at its best in the spring.

Carts are available and necessary. This is not an easy walking course. It is tighter, more demanding than Secret Valley and would probably be too onerous for the long handicapper except from the forward tees.

But that shouldn't deter the average player who could happily play 18 holes either side of lunch in the rustic clubhouse. A bonus: it won't be crowded and a weekly ticket allows five rounds on either Tsada or Secret Valley, which have common ownership. All the major hotels in Paphos will book tee times by arrangement, or there's a central reservations number for those who haven't booked through an agent.

Secret Valley is well named. It's a mile off the highway in a glorious setting, a narrow strip of land that runs between hills of pink granite. The valley lies at right angles to the coast so there's always a cooling breeze. We played late afternoon in July and it was a delight, even though the temperature in Paphos was close to 100F.

It's a disarmingly old-fashioned course with the occasional blind shot, some cross bunkers and greens flat to the fairway, a simple but effective design that, five years after completion, is improving with time and further investment.

Wooded in parts, with the odd fairway dominated by major trees, it has two or three holes you'll recall fondly and the condition was outstanding for such a young course subjected to high temperatures.

Several holes play into the brisk sea breeze, stretching what appears to be a modest card and bringing indecision in club selection on the downwind holes. But the rough is minimal and the greens munificent. There's ample margin for error for lesser players while the tigers would have a ball from the back tees.

Secret Valley was a lovely discovery, a perfect holiday course offering good value and with a clubhouse of some character. Take lunch and a bottle of chilled wine on the verandah overlooking the course and one of its lakes and you might even forego that second round!

But you could always return. As they say of Cyprus: " No one goes there just once..."

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GETTING THERE
The two airports are at Paphos and Larnaca and Cyprus Airways, among others, have regular flights there from most British airports. Flight time is roughly 4 hours 15 mins. Lanarca airport is two hours by road from Paphos, via Limassol.

WHEN TO GO
The summer months of June to August are generally too hot for golf and the courses are not at their best in temperatures ranging between 95F and 105F. The shoulder months of May and September are generally 10 degrees cooler but the ideal periods for golf are early spring, after the January rains, and late autumn. Some prefer the winter months, which are temperate during the day and chilly at night.

WHERE TO STAY
Fine hotels abound in Paphos of which the dominant is the 5* de luxe Amathus Beach, one of the Leading Hotels of the World. Of elegant design, with 220 rooms offering every facility, with private balconies overlooking 10 acres of landscaped gardens, tennis courts, a free form pool and a sandy cove. There is a health and beauty centre with a myriad facilities; four restaurants of disparate style, indoors and out, several bars and a games area. Only a few minutes from the centre of Paphos, there are a dozen or so restaurants and bars near the main gate. Impeccable service and cuisine enhance this memorable hotel.

The 5* Coral Beach Hotel & Resort at the village of Coral Bay is a short drive north of Paphos. Ideal for families, it has every facility, including a world class spa and health and beauty centre. There are 440 rooms of varying style and size, all with sea view balconies, five restaurants offering mainly al fresco dining, and several bars. A six storey structure of distinctive design, the hotel overlooks gardens, a free form pool, the beach and a private marina where the hotel's yacht begins regular cruises. A complete resort, Coral Bay offers a variety of activity holiday packages, including water sports, tennis and golf.

The 4* Holiday Inn, Limassol, is a beach side hotel on the promenade and minutes from the city centre and its nightlife. Formerly the acclaimed Churchill Hotel, it recently had a £1.5 million renovation and re-opened as the Holiday Inn in May, 1999. It has 144 de luxe rooms, mainly overlooking the sea, an outdoor pool alongside the beach, tennis courts, a health and fitness centre and an indoor pool with sauna and games room. There's a choice of restaurants and bars; there are daily excursions and cruises are available nearby. Paphos and Lanarca airports are both an hour away. Secret Valley GC is about 45 minutes via the new motorway, Tsada GC about an hour.

CURRENCY
The Cyprus £ is worth about £1.15 Sterling.

WINING AND DINING
Eating out is one of the joys of a Cyprus holiday and is remarkably good value. A simple two course lunch at a beach side bistro will cost no more than £8 (Cyprus) for two, with a good local wine. Dinner at a 5* hotel would cost about £25 for two, with wine.

GREEN FEES
Low season (May 16 to September 15) about £20 (Cyprus) per round, or £18 per round for three or more rounds in one week at either Tsada or Secret Valley. At other times the fees are £25 and £23 respectively. Golf carts cost £14 per round; electric trolleys £4.


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