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How far you care to travel depends upon the time factor, of course, but if you have seven days La Baule, home of arguably the finest resort in Western France and a trio of first rate hotels, is within range.
It is about 125 miles from St Malo, down the N137 to the Rennes ring road and taking the D177 to the coast.
If withdrawal symptoms set in en route you could tarry near Rennes where you'll find two courses of some repute; or you might prefer to push on to La Bretesche.
Here, in the centre of a course surrounded by woodland, stands a much-photographed 14th century castle on the edge of a lake. See it at dusk and it's not difficult to imagine the thunder of hoof beats and visualise armour-suited knights riding off into the mist...
These days the jousting takes another form, over a fine holiday lay-out that falls just a touch short of championship standard and is generally in good order, to boot.
There's a three star hotel there, too, and some self-catering apartments and cottages, so it may be that you'll linger a while. A commendable idea, upon reflection, and it's but a short hop to La Baule and a collection of the region's finer hotels.
The course, designed by Peter Alliss and David Thomas, opened to great acclaim in 1967, with a third loop being added four years ago and a fourth now under way. It's an unsung beauty (6,700 yards, par-72) that will test you, whatever your handicap.
You'll want at least two days here because nearby is Golf de Savenay, an outstanding new course that is equally challenging. It's close to 7,000 yards from the back tees, a par-73 that overlooks the River Loire on the edge of the Briere marshes and winds its way between lakes and woodlands.
But soon you'll be tempted to push on, northwards up the coast, where a string of golfing gems await convenient for some hospitable accommodation.
We're talking of quite short journeys now, both to your next hotel and its nearby courses, so there will be no great haste: there'll be time enough for golf and to smell the flowers and see the sights as you traverse a glorious coast line.
Your first halt might be at Baden Golf Club which has a three star hotel in situ, a former Breton priory hidden in woodland and overlooking the Bay of Morbihan at Le Bono.
This is the Hostellerie Abbatiale, now lovingly restored and with 71 bedrooms, some in a modern wing. The course is equally appealing, a seaside parkland with a series of lakes and with a hint of links, part of which winds through a pine forest. It's a par-72 and 6,700 yards from the tiger tees but, first time around at least, you'd be advised to tackle it from the forward tees, a more amiable 6,300 yards. Good fun and very scenic.
The hotel is only 11 miles from another beauty you must not miss. Golf de St Laurent is out of the top drawer and has twice been the venue for the French PGA Championship. The winner in both instances was barely under par, although doubtless they used tees further back than the men's blocks which on the card measure 6,730 yards, par-72.
It's an expansive course in every sense: big greens, large bunkers, wide fairways -- but they're tree-lined and most bend a touch so you'll need to be fairly accurate to get a look at the green.
The latter are hard and quick, with lots of subtle breaks. Upon reflection I thought it was a fun course but my notes say that "this will challenge the better player" so obviously I had an indifferent day. 'Twas a memorable lunch, though!
One of the appealing aspects of Breton golf in the shoulder seasons is that the courses are virtually deserted; so 36 holes can be easily fitted in each day, even with a long pause for lunch.
So one night here will have you ready to move on, this time to a charming hotel in the little town of Ploemeur, about 30 miles or so to the north and you can have 36 holes before you check in.
The Hotel les Asteries is two star, it is clean, comfortable and unpretentious. Mine host is a golfer who keeps a good table and a cosy bar. What's more, it's bang in the centre of town but no distance at all from two courses that are guaranteed to leave you wanting more.
Neither course is more than five miles away and Ploemeur Ocean is the closer. It's a links, and a hard-bitten one at that with acres of gorse, much heavy rough and with water hazards on eight holes. Check the weather before you play here: if it's blowing take a rain check! The greens had been hollow tined and top dressed the day we played and the wind off the bay was fierce so conditions were not the best.
But it was impossible to ignore the quality of the design, by Ireland's Tom MacAuley. This is a first rate lay out and single figure men would wax lyrical. The card says 6,482 yards, par-72, but don't be misled; in a wind there's precious little margin for error. Well worth a day.
The other nearby course is Golf le Val Queven and judging by my notes I had a good day here! Two aspects stand out: the large greens are among the finest I've seen, and the setting is glorious. It's a wooded course and some walks between green and tee are breathtaking.
The course meanders across valleys, skirts water, wanders through trees and every hole offers a different vista. Stunning. A big course at 6,740 yards, par-72, so bring your best form here.
If you stayed overnight at La Bretesche you've put six nights behind you and there's one to go. Best start thinking of the ferry and heading towards the port. Getting there will be the longest leg of your journey but choose an adjacent hotel for your final night in France and you'll have a day's golf before you embark. Perfect.
Nowhere could be more adjacent than the Hostellerie Abbatiale at Le Tronchet, only a mile from St Malo Golf Club and 23 miles from the port. This three star inn was an abbey in the 16th century but now has every mod con to compliment its unique ambience. Merits a detour.
The course, by comparison, dates to 1986. It has 27 holes in 250 acres and everything is king-sized, with large targets and equally large hazards!
It's on the edge of a forest, many fairways edge a reservoir and there are lots of other water hazards, too. But the generous greens are welcoming, providing you avoid the huge bunkers, one of which has a megalithic stone as its centre piece!
The principal lay out (6,615 yards, par-72) has been rated one of the best new courses in France so it offers a fitting finale to a memorable week.
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