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The three alternative courses on the tourist trail are at the other end of the island. The furthest is St George's, near the old capital of that name. Everything about Bermuda is scenic but the course here has an historical ambience, too, because legend has it this is where the ship-wrecked founding fathers staggered ashore in 1609.
At 4,043 yards, par-62, the course is of deceptive proportions and Trent Jones Sr. has shown what can be achieved with a limited canvas. Well worth a round if you're touring the town.
Castle Harbour, conversely, presents a major examination because of the rugged terrain. Golf carts are mandatory here and it's the only way to fully enjoy a panoramic course of some stature.
It has several memorable holes and the first is a classic: a pulpit tee is dominated by views of waving tree tops, the azure waterway that is Castle Harbour and, beyond, the darker-hued ocean.
Far below a valley turns gently left around a stand of trees as it rises to a tiered, well-bunkered green. It's only 330 yards but because of the elevations it plays more like 390. Par this one and with all those distractions you'll be off and running with a grin from ear to ear.
It should be said that when last I played it several holes at Castle Harbour had blind tee shots, although that has by now probably changed through a $67 million project aimed at refurbishing both course and hotel.
But in any event this wont detract from the round. The fairways are not restrictive and if you temper ambition off the tee your good sense will be rewarded. You'll need patience on the greens, too. They're very grainy and hard and quick.
Castle Harbour is typical of the rich tapestry of golf in Bermuda where the game is a way of life played against a backdrop without equal.
LIKE the 16th at Port Royal, Mid Ocean's 5th is unforgettable but of infinitely greater challenge. At 433 yards this is a classical par-4, one always included in the world's finest composite courses by those who know their subject.
It's a dog-leg, right to left, and from the elevated tee the green is visible in the far distance. But the fairway lies the other side of a lake and the safe route for even the frail hearted demands a carry of close to 200 yards, half of that over the narrowest stretch of water.
Legend has it that a US baseball player once hit the green with his tee shot and doubtless young Tiger Woods would savour the challenge but for mere mortals even a career-best drive would leave a strong mid-iron approach.
Bite off as much as you dare remembering that distance is difficult to estimate over water and moreso from a tee that's close to 100 feet above it. A hook is often partner to such ambition so even a mildly-aggressive shot is not without risk.
A fade over the narrowest crossing point is the sensible option, followed by a lay-up short of the bunkered opening of a banana-shaped green that slopes sharply from right to left. A pitch-up, two-putt bogey will beat most scores most days on a marvellous hole that is the jewel of a glittering creation.
Mid Ocean (above) was laid out in 1921 by Charles Blair Macdonald, the first great American architect, who was smitten by Scottish courses while at St Andrews University.
Naturally, then, his philosophy was minimalist; he preferred to let nature dictate matters, typified at Mid Ocean which may be the equal of his finest design, the National Links in New York.
Surrounded by the ocean, it is a compelling site enhanced by soaring pines and flowering shrubbery. Much of the course is laid over gentle hills and vales, with lakes featuring on several holes and traditional-style bunkering prominent.
Many greens are above head height, adding to the problems in judgment of distance and on the higher ground, around the course perimeter, the sea wind is a constant factor. Shot values here are of the highest order, even on the gentle holes.
A round at Mid Ocean has a lovely tempo, a series of crescendos finding counterpoints in more subdued passages, the mark of exemplary design. There's not a weak hole and most are memorable.
At 6,512 yards from the back tees, Mid Ocean falls short of the modern trends in length but the wind, the light but cloying rough and the rolling fairways serve to disguise this.
To prove the point: although many great players have tackled it the course record is still 64, seven below par. So better your handicap at Mid Ocean and you'll have holiday memories to savour in your dotage.
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